Operating A Standard Non-Catalytic Wood Stove
A non catalytic stove is designed to produce cleaner emissions and longer burn times,
similar to a catalytic system. Gases produced from the burning of the wood are mixed
with just the right amount of air to ensure they are burned completely, producing clean
emissions and efficient warmth.
What makes a new non catalytic wood stove burn efficiently and cleanly is "secondary
combustion", a feature that differentiates the new stoves from the older models.
In new non catalytic wood stoves, the usual combustion process is augmented by a
second area of combustion that burns off the smoke before it exits through the flue.
In some stoves, the fire of secondary combustion is visible near the air inlets in the
secondary combustion zone (it looks like a little jet of flame coming out of the inlets), and
is called "light-off."
Non Catalytic Wood Stove Operating Procedures
Build and maintain moderately hot fires quickly after loading the wood. Burn a new load
at a higher air setting for about 5 to 15 minutes and then turn down the air supply to
the desired setting. When adding new wood, the dampers should be opened to supply
air directly to the wood and to the flames leaving the wood.
Sufficient air must be supplied to completely burn the gases and resins from the wood.
The rate at which the wood burns is related to the amount of air supplied to the wood. If
there's not enough air, the wood will not burn completely.
High temperatures are necessary to achieve the secondary combustion that non
catalytic stoves rely on to reduce pollution and improve efficiency.
Use many small or split pieces of wood rather that a few large pieces. Small or split
pieces (e.g., 2- to 5-inch diameter) ignite more quickly and create the hot fires that non
catalytic stoves require.
Pay special attention to the instructions for using the secondary air controls. In some
models, you can observe the secondary air inlets through the glass door to confirm that
the inlets light-off. Non catalytic stoves require secondary combustion to burn cleanly
and efficiently.
Burn moderate to full loads of wood to ensure several hours of uninterrupted burning.
Minimizing door openings keeps the burn temperature high and sustains secondary
combustion. Frequent door openings increase pollution both inside and outside your
home.
Operate the stove's internal fans (if your stove has them) in strict accordance with the
operating instructions. Some manufacturers recommend leaving the fans turned off for
30 minutes after start-up and refueling, and setting them on low for small fires. Fans
remove heat from the fire; cooler fires result in more pollution.
Reload the stove when the charcoal bed burns down to a 3 to 4 inch depth. De- ash the
bed by stirring but don't break up the charcoal or compress the bed. Heat from the
charcoal will ignite the new fuel and help keep the temperatures high. Larger pieces of
charcoal let air circulate and help the fire revive quickly.
Don’t burn freshly cut green wood, or kiln/oven-dried lumber. The high moisture content
of fresh wood hinders hot, clean burning. Kiln, or oven-dried lumber vaporizes too fast,
leading to excessive pollution and creosote buildup, with its associated fire hazard.
Don’t let the fire smolder at low heat. Hot fires (i.e., temperatures of 1000 to 1200F) are
required to maintain secondary combustion and burn the pollutants in the smoke. Cool
fires lead to more creosote buildup in your flue, requiring more frequent cleaning and
creating a fire hazard.
Don’t burn trash, treated wood, particle board, plywood, or other fuels (such as coal,
kerosene, or lighter fluid) unless they are listed on your stove's permanent label. Trash
produces fly ash. Treated woods, particle board, and plywood contain chemicals that,
when burned and inhaled, are hazardous. Burning other fuels may overheat and
damage your stove.
similar to a catalytic system. Gases produced from the burning of the wood are mixed
with just the right amount of air to ensure they are burned completely, producing clean
emissions and efficient warmth.
What makes a new non catalytic wood stove burn efficiently and cleanly is "secondary
combustion", a feature that differentiates the new stoves from the older models.
In new non catalytic wood stoves, the usual combustion process is augmented by a
second area of combustion that burns off the smoke before it exits through the flue.
In some stoves, the fire of secondary combustion is visible near the air inlets in the
secondary combustion zone (it looks like a little jet of flame coming out of the inlets), and
is called "light-off."
Non Catalytic Wood Stove Operating Procedures
Build and maintain moderately hot fires quickly after loading the wood. Burn a new load
at a higher air setting for about 5 to 15 minutes and then turn down the air supply to
the desired setting. When adding new wood, the dampers should be opened to supply
air directly to the wood and to the flames leaving the wood.
Sufficient air must be supplied to completely burn the gases and resins from the wood.
The rate at which the wood burns is related to the amount of air supplied to the wood. If
there's not enough air, the wood will not burn completely.
High temperatures are necessary to achieve the secondary combustion that non
catalytic stoves rely on to reduce pollution and improve efficiency.
Use many small or split pieces of wood rather that a few large pieces. Small or split
pieces (e.g., 2- to 5-inch diameter) ignite more quickly and create the hot fires that non
catalytic stoves require.
Pay special attention to the instructions for using the secondary air controls. In some
models, you can observe the secondary air inlets through the glass door to confirm that
the inlets light-off. Non catalytic stoves require secondary combustion to burn cleanly
and efficiently.
Burn moderate to full loads of wood to ensure several hours of uninterrupted burning.
Minimizing door openings keeps the burn temperature high and sustains secondary
combustion. Frequent door openings increase pollution both inside and outside your
home.
Operate the stove's internal fans (if your stove has them) in strict accordance with the
operating instructions. Some manufacturers recommend leaving the fans turned off for
30 minutes after start-up and refueling, and setting them on low for small fires. Fans
remove heat from the fire; cooler fires result in more pollution.
Reload the stove when the charcoal bed burns down to a 3 to 4 inch depth. De- ash the
bed by stirring but don't break up the charcoal or compress the bed. Heat from the
charcoal will ignite the new fuel and help keep the temperatures high. Larger pieces of
charcoal let air circulate and help the fire revive quickly.
Don’t burn freshly cut green wood, or kiln/oven-dried lumber. The high moisture content
of fresh wood hinders hot, clean burning. Kiln, or oven-dried lumber vaporizes too fast,
leading to excessive pollution and creosote buildup, with its associated fire hazard.
Don’t let the fire smolder at low heat. Hot fires (i.e., temperatures of 1000 to 1200F) are
required to maintain secondary combustion and burn the pollutants in the smoke. Cool
fires lead to more creosote buildup in your flue, requiring more frequent cleaning and
creating a fire hazard.
Don’t burn trash, treated wood, particle board, plywood, or other fuels (such as coal,
kerosene, or lighter fluid) unless they are listed on your stove's permanent label. Trash
produces fly ash. Treated woods, particle board, and plywood contain chemicals that,
when burned and inhaled, are hazardous. Burning other fuels may overheat and
damage your stove.
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